Don't Fake It! ... Use The Real Deal

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Hello Everyone,

Lately I've noticed that many people "in the know" have been suggesting using gold and silver toned wire. While these can be a low cost alternative to precious metals, I'm not altogether sure that they're a good idea. Cheap doesn't always imply good. Here are my thoughts on the subject.

My first concern is durability. These 'metals' don't hold up as well as the real thing. Discoloration over time becomes a real factor. Here's why. Let's say you had a beautiful natural stone cabochon. You create a wonderful setting for it that you are extremely proud of. The problem is you used toned wire for it. You display all of your wonderful and unique pieces at an art show and your work sells like hot cakes. No problem, right? The problem comes when you visit that show the very next year. You again display your work, but this time sales seem to have dropped off - what's the problem? You should be getting repeat customers from the previous year. The problem is reputation. All of that beautiful work you did the previous year has now discolored and looks cheap.

Another concern, somewhat related to the previous one is look. The metal may look gold or silver but it just seems to be missing something. The tone of the color just doesn't look right. I've never looked at gold tone wire and thought that it might be gold. Believe me, people who visit your booth at an arts and crafts show can tell that the metal you are using isn't the real thing.

This brings up another concern. When using cheap materials aren't you suppose to lower your prices? Know one ever does, do they?  So why do it?

Here are a few suggestions to help keep your reputation and still use quality materials in your work.

1. Buy in smaller quantities. This takes planning. Sit down with a sketchpad and draw out some of your ideas for certain cabochons that you would like to work with. Use these sketches to figure out about how much metal you'll need. Once you have an estimate of how much you'll need, place an order for those materials. Rio grande has recently allowed people to purchase just the materials that they need instead of holding to their minimum purchase policy. You may have to limit your creating to small bursts of brilliance.

2. Use aluminum, copper and brass. Because the high cost associated with gold and silver many consumers just aren't buying jewelry made it. This trend has allowed jewelry artists to explore other metals. Because we're artists we've been able to adapt and come up with some beautiful results. So why not give it a go.

3. If you have to go cheaper but want to stay with gold and silver, try gold and silver filled. Most wire artists are familiar with gold filled wire, but a new arrival on the scene is sterling silver filled. As you would expect, silver filled wire looks and acts just like regular sterling. So why not give it a try.

4. Think quality, not quantity. When I plan for art shows I always have the desire to fill my booth with a ton of work. Since the downturn of the economy my thinking has changed a little. Instead of turning our a couple hundred pieces for a show, I have cut that down to under 100. But there's a difference in the work that I do today than what I was doing. I try to select stones that really have a wow factor (interesting patterns and color) and set them in good quality metals - mostly sterling silver. This implies high quality to the consumer. If the consumer percieves a high value in the piece, they are more apt to splurge on it.

One final thought. If you do use silver or gold in your work hold on to every scrap that you have. Many jewelry supply companys have a recycle program that will pay you either cash or give you a credit for your unused trimmings. These recycled scraps can be used to purchase more metal for future pieces.

Hopefully my little rant has saved your reputation. It's easy to lose your reputation but takes a life time to get get it back.  

 

'til Next Week

 

Jim McIntosh

The Wire Art Education Center

 

 

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A New Place for Inspiration

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For the past year and I half I have been trying to come up with new design ideas. I tried everything to hit on a new idea. I went to the library and thumbed through tons of jewelry books. I hit the book store and tore through pages of fashion and jewelry magazines. time and again I came up with nothing. Then I hit on something that never crossed my mind - Pinterest.

I'm sure that most of you, like me, are very familiar with Pinterest. The website allows you to organize images that you have found on the net by 'pinning' them into 'boards'. Others can follow your boards and view the new images that you pin. In turn you can follow others boards that you find interesting.  (For more information on how to use Pinterest please visit http://pinterest.com/about/help/)  But how could I use Pinterest to find inspiration for my jewelry work? That was the million dollar question in my mind. I loved looking at all of the images and funny pictures that people have pinned, but none of those really inspired me.

To figure out how Pinterest could help, I went to the Pinterest search engine. I typed in the phrase "Wire Jewelry" and up popped dozens upon dozens of beautiful jewelry. I created a new board - Jewelry Crafts DIY - and began pinning my heart out! I then typed in other jewelry related searches and pinned those. Each time I found an interesting collection of jewelry pins I began following the fellow pinner. With each new pin that I placed on my board I could feel my creative juices begin to flow. Within no time I was feverishly sketching new wire art designs - so much that I began to see not just one new Wire Art Book in my future, but at least two! My creative dry spell was broken.

To keep Pinterest fresh and interesting for everyone you really need to add some of your own images. As I make new work and write new tutorials I pin an image of it on jewelry board for all of my followers to see. Hopefully these new pins inspire others to create new and exciting work.

Pinterest gave me a new avenue to go down to find inspiration. Each day I now make time to look at my pinterest page. I pin new images that bring me inspiration. This gives me an unlimited supply of new ideas. Why not head over to Pinterest and try it yourself. You can take a look at my Jewelry board at http://pinterest.com/jim4143/jewelry-crafts-diy/ that should help get you started.

'til Next Week

Jim McIntosh
the Wire Art Education Center

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Try This New Cold Connection Method

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In recent years the buzzword has been cold connection. It seems as if everyone is looking for a way to join metal together without the use of fire and solder. Most of those searchers were looking for ways to connect metal sheet - NOT wire. They're answer - Rivets! They began using rivets to join metal and it worked perfectly! In no time these artists began churning out new work that had a beautiful industrial feel to it. All without the use of solder.

As wire artists we love exploring new techniques, however it seems that this one doesn't always apply to us. The wire that we use in our work is often too small for us to use rivets. It would be great if we could find a method to produce modern contemporary jewelry without having to solder or rivet. What could we do?

A couple years ago I spent a lot of time searching for a new way to join metals together without using solder OR rivets. The idea was to join wire together to create a joint that was as solid as solder. After a lot of trial and error (not to mention pouting and crying) I finally found it - I called it Wiresmithing. The technique is really easy and doesn't require any special tools. It can be done using the tools that most wire artists already have.

So in this blog post I wanted to give you an opportunity to explore this method of cold connection. Below are three FREE videos that i have produced that will take you step by step of the basics of wiresmithing.

Introduction to Wiresmithing Part 1

 

Introduction to Wiresmithing Part 2

 

Introduction to Wiresmithing Part 3 - The Basic Technique

 

 

So what can you do with Wiresmithing? Here are a couple of picture of some of the things I've designed using this simple and effective technique.

 

 

Ocean Jasper/Drusy Brooch

 

Fordite Pendant

 

Turquoise Bracelet

 

Larimar Pendant

 

 

I bet your wondering "Where can I learn more?" After I figured out how to use this new technique I wrote a book called "Wiresmithing - The New Look of Wire Art". In it you'll find everything that you need to know to create your own works of art using this new cold connection technique. Stop by our website - http://www.wirearted.com to learn more.

 

That's all for this week....We'll see you next week!

 

Jim



 

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The Wire Art Education Center

 

Copper Etching on Wire Tutorial

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With the price of silver and gold rising with each passing day, all of us are looking for ways to continue our work using less expensive materials. This has led many to explore the wonderful world of copper. Looking through a Rio Grande materials catalog recently I discovered that they carry a nice selection of copper wire. One product that caught my eye was 9.5x1.6mm copper strip. I thought this material would be perfect to make pendants and earrings. Simply cut it with metal shears or a jeweler’s saw, drill a hole and texture it - simple.

You could use almost any technique to texture this pendant, but I thought that it would be a great way to show you an easy etching technique. The process is so unbelievably simple it’ll amaze you. 

 

Here are the tools you'll need - Metal shears, tin snips, or a  jewelers saw, raw hide mallet, bench block, flat hand file, steel wool, fine tip and regular tip permanent marker - or a rubber stamp of your choice and a jet black StazOn ink pad, roll of wide packing tape, measuring cup, 2 small, shallow plastic containers, tweezers (non-copper), flex shaft, and a small drill bit to drill a bail hole.

 

Here are the materials you'll need - 1 ½ inch long piece of 9.5x1.6mm copper strip, hydrogen peroxide, muriatic acid, non-acetone fingernail polish remover, and baking soda

 

Overview

Before we jump into the process I thought it would be a good idea to go over what we’ll be doing and why. Basically we’ll mix a solution of hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid. This acid solution will ‘eat away’ the unprotected portions of the copper creating a pattern on the metal. We’ll protect the metal and define the pattern by drawing or stamping a design on it using permanent ink to prohibit the process.  Muriatic acid is very inexpensive and can be purchased from most any home improvement store. It’s used to balance the pH level in swimming pools and to clean concrete.

 

Safety First

Keep in mind that we are working with a mild acid. This substance can and will burn you if you get it on your bare skin. To prevent the acid from causing you any harm wear clothing that doesn’t expose your skin. In addition wear rubber gloves and eye protection.

 

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Prepare the Metal

Begin by cutting a 1 ½ inch long piece of copper strip using metal shears or a jewelers saw. Place the cut copper strip on a bench block and hammer it flat with a raw hide mallet. With a flat hand file, file any sharp or jagged edges from the copper strip.

Before the design can be added to the metal it has to be cleaned. Clean the surface of the metal with dish soap and a scrubbing pad. Be sure to rinse the metal thoroughly. Once clean, dry the metal completely. To give the ink something to adhere to, rough up the surface a little with steel wool.

 

 

There are several ways that you can add a design to the surface of the metal. The easiest is to use a rubber stamp and permanent ink pad. The best ink pad to use for this is made by StazOn. This particular ink pad is formulated to use on almost any surface so it’s perfect for this process.  Load the rubber stamp with ink by tapping on the ink pad a few times. Firmly press the stamp on the metal and carefully pull it off the metal to prevent it from smearing. If the stamp didn’t work how you wanted it to, remove the ink using non-acetone fingernail polish remover and re-stamp.



 

To protect the side edges of the metal, cover them using a permanent marker.

 

 

 Another method is to draw a design on the metal using permanent markers. This method gives you the opportunity to create any design that you would like. When using this technique keep in mind that the black lines drawn on the metal are the high points of the etched design.  

 

 

Just a note about adding your design – remember that this is going to be a pendant. After the etching process we will be drilling a hole in it so it can be worn. You don’t want the hole to destroy the design. So keep this in mind when you are laying everything out.

 

Once the design has been applied to the front of the metal and the edges are covered with permanent ink, something has to be added to the back to protect it. Pull off a piece of clear packing tape and adhere it to the back of the copper strip. Rub the tape firmly to the metal to be sure it’s adhering completely. 

 

 

Prepare the Acid 

The ratio for this mixture is 2 to 1 – two parts hydrogen peroxide to one part muriatic acid. You only need enough of the solution to cover the metal completely.  For the size of my container I’m using a half cup of hydrogen peroxide and on quarter cup of muriatic acid. The fumes from this acid solution can be hazardous so it’s best to do all of your etching in a well-ventilated area, outside is best.  Before mixing the acid solution, put on all of your protective gear – safety first. Pour the hydrogen peroxide in the container first then slowly pour in the acid. Using your metal tweezers gently mix the solution a bit. Be careful that you don’t splash the solution.

 

Fill the second container with enough water to cover the metal. Add to the water two tablespoons of baking soda and thoroughly mix. This solution will be used to neutralize the acid on the copper once the etching is complete. 

 

The Process

Grab the metal to be etched by a corner of the tape backing using the metal tweezers. Place the metal in the solution with the design facing up. The process can take anywhere between 15 to 30 minutes.   About every 5 minutes visit the etching container and gently shake it. Agitating the solution every few minutes will help the process along. You’ll notice that the etching solution is changing color. The once clear solution is now a vibrant blue-green color. This is due to the chemical reaction taking place between the solution and the metal.

 

 

After about 15 minutes, remove the metal from the etching solution by grabbing it with tweezers. Place the metal into the water/baking soda mixture. Remove it from the water solution and rinse it with clean water. Check the surface of the metal to see if it has been sufficiently etched. If it doesn’t meet to your satisfaction place it back into the etching solution for an additional 15 minutes. Remove the metal, rinse, and recheck. Once it has been properly etched you can move on to the next step.

 

 

The Disposal

Once you are finished etching you need to properly dispose of the acid solution. This is easily done by adding small amounts of backing soda to the acid solution. Start by carefully pouring a small amount of baking soda into the acid – about a tablespoon will do. Notice the reaction, the mixture will begin to foam. When the foaming subsides add a little more baking soda. Continue this procedure until the acid no longer foams. It is now safe to pour the now neutralized etching solution down the drain. Be sure to run plenty of water down the drain to wash it away. 

Finishing Touches

You’ll notice that there is still a layer of permanent marker on the front and edges of the pendant. Remove it using a little non-acetone fingernail polish remover.

 

Now that the pendant is clean the only thing left to do is drill a hole in it so it can be worn.  Mark the pendant at the top center with a permanent marker. Using a small drill bit inserted into a flex shaft, drill a pilot hole. Change to a larger drill bit and drill the final hole. Check the bail hole for rough edges. Clean these up using a needle file and sandpaper.

 

A beautiful pair of matching earrings can easily be made by following the same steps but on a slightly smaller scale. This process not only works great with copper, it’s also great for brass and nickel silver – so go ahead and experiment with these economical metals too.

I really hope you enjoyed this. Etching metal is a fun way to add a bit of flair to your work. Don't be afraid of the process, it's far easier than you think. So give it a try...you'll love it!

See ya next week! 

For More Jewelry Making tips Please Visit - 

The Wire Art Education Center

Fix the Old...Don't Buy New

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Tools are an essential part of jewelry making - duh, right? If you are anything like me, you get attached to certain tools and hate to see them get damaged.  I personally have a pair of flat nose pliers that I love and I dread the thought of having to replace them one day. I use them so often that a different pair just doesn't feel right. However, over time tools - such as flat nose and chain nose pliers - develop wear marks on the gripping surface. These tools marks leave impressions on the wire and are aggravating to remove.

So what can you do ti fix this? One solution is to replace them. But then you have to deal with the expense of purchasing new tools. Now I know that many high end tool manufacturer's offer free replacements if yours get damaged, but that too can be a hassle. First of all you have to give yours up so they can send you the replacements. Then you have to patiently wait for the new ones to arrive. I'm too busy to wait around. So I came up with another solution to the problem...resurface the gripping surface.

This procedure is much easier than you may think. All you need is fine sandpaper and a small bowl of water. I have found that I get the best results using 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The sandpaper can be found at just about any hardware or home improvement store for a few dollars. Tear off a small 3 inch square of the sandpaper and wet it in a small bowl of water - the sandpaper only needs to be damp, not soaked.



Begin sanding the surface of the damaged tool. You want to sand the surface evenly so that you avoid making any deep spots (then you'll really have to spend the time and money to buy new ones). As you sand it may be necessary to re-wet the sandpaper so there is a nice slick surface on the sanding surface.



Every few minutes check your progress, you don't want to over sand the tool. To check rub your finger across the sanding surface - you should feel a smooth glassy finish on the metal. Once the surface has been repaired it's ready to start using again.

 



This procedure works on just about any metal surface. I've used it not only on pliers, but on hammers and bench blocks too - It works GREAT!

Have fun and we'll see you next week.

For More Jewelry Making tips Please visit - http://www.wirearted.com

Todays Tip...Wire Splicing

This is the first of many weekly Blog entries on Wire Art tips. Remember, you can find everything you need to know about Wire Art Techniques at http://www.wirearted.com

So here's the problem - You've been hard at work on your latest Wire Art Project. One section of the piece has a long wrap that requires a lot of wrap wire. You get three quarters of the wrap finished and realize that you dont have enough wire to finish the wrap. What do you do?

So Close



You really only have two choices to fix it - remove the wrap and do it over or modify the design. Here's a third choice - Splice in additional wire.

The technique is really rather simple and it can save you from having to waste wire or redign a piece. So if you're ready....Here we go!

 

Step 1 - Clip the End

To make room for a new piece we’ll need to prepare the end of the existing wrap wire. Using wire cutters, clip the end of the existing wire just short enough so that is covers one or two of the frame wires.

 



Step 2 - Prepare the New Wire

Cut a fresh piece of half round that will be easy to maneuver but long enough to wrap the remaining wrap section.

 





Step 3 - Make a Hook

Using flat nose pliers, place the tip of the half round wire in the pliers’ jaws at the very end making sure that the flat side is facing you. Bend the long end over the pliers making a small hook.

Place this hook on the bracelet band opposite the prepared end of the existing wrap.

Continue wrapping the band.

 



 

It's as simple as that. Here's a little video that will help you visualize the technique a little better.

 



 We'll See You Next Week